09 September 2010

XC Run Days 27-33 Pt. 1

7,297 miles. 33 days. 16 States and 42 tanks of gas.

There's a lot to talk about. The Rally, the HUB, the Brethren and the story of wind and rain. Now, too, there is the saga of Bear and GloJoe --they're in Minnesota, Bear called yesterday afternoon -- as they make their way over to, then down, the West Coast.

And talk about it I will. Now that I'm off the road, I intend to post several times a day till I catch up. But, I also have the inevitable detritus that occurs when one is gone so long to deal with.

Piles of laundry. Re-configure the 'scoot (don't usually run about with all that stuff hangin' on it. It's an old school bobber). And, oh by the way, tonight is Stated Meeting and I've got to put the Top Hat back on. I've a Lodge to run. And a Chapter -- we've got two runs coming up and we need to figure when we're meeting Bear and GloJoe. There's a mountain of mail sitting on my desk.

Don't ya just hate it when reality grabs that baseball bat and whacks ya up side th' head? Even when it's good reality.


Bein' a 'scooter tramp is easy; bein' a responsible adult is hard (at least the few times I've tried it, it was) but both are fun if ya let 'em be.

So, I'm gonna get woke up, get some things done and start the post on the rally.

Maybe I'll even talk more about the best part of the trip.

See ya in a few hours...

06 September 2010

XC Run Days 27, 28, 29 Pt. 2

More excuses tonight.

I'm in Silverthorn, CO high in the Rockies and I'm beat.

'Couple of posts back, I mentioned I expected a price to be paid for all the good weather I've had. Today I paid it. Not in rain or snow as I expected. In wind.

The forecast today was for winds 20-25 kts. - gusts 30. Just checked the weather channel. It was 50, gusts 65. All day, a quartering headwind. There were times I was taking curves leaning the opposite way just to hold the road. Saw several big rigs on their sides. Just blew 'em over. Found out they almost closed 70.

I only made 500 miles today. Had to break it down to 100 mile pulls. Slows ya' down, doing that.

So I'm going to bed.

Talk to you tomorrow.

(But, it still was a good day on the 'scoot!)

05 September 2010

XC Run Days 27, 28, 29

Been a while.

So much was going on at the Rally that I just didn't have time to write. And tonight I've just finished 11 hours in the saddle gettin' beat to death by that doggone Kansas wind.

Excuses, excuses.

So, I'll make a deal with ya'... I'll put a little bit down on this tonight and do a Paul Harvey ("The Rest of The Story..." for you kiddies) tomorrow.

Lessee -- when we last left our young hero he was blissfully contemplating running the "Pig Trail". (OK, the old goat was tired and wet, holin' up in a Best Western in Russelville, Arkansas.)

So we continue...

I didn't trust the road or my tires.

Came out of Russelville  on Hwy 7, The "Pig Trail" and had one of those rare days when the 'scoot just didn't feel right. Tires felt squirrelly. I know they weren't, had good air in 'em, they've been wearing well, just felt that way. Have days like that sometimes. Can't get right in the seat, handlebars feel wrong -- a myriad of things that I know are all in my head. Usually I just feel the 'scoot in my butt. It's just a part of me. Think something and it happens. But every once in a while...

First thing I noticed was that there were wet patches on the road, that the pavement wasn't too even and that you couldn't trust the camber. And then, in the first decent curve, nice little semi-sweeper, I see (just at that point, about half way through, when it really starts to tighten up, ya know?) a wonderful orange sign:

"Fresh Oil".

Perfect, just bloody perfect.

So I slowed down. Don't think I hit better n' 70 that whole run. But, slowing down I was able to enjoy it. Sometimes it's nice being an old coot. Don't need to impress anyone and, maybe more importantly, one need no longer try to impress one's self.

So it was pretty in those hills. Small, soft mounds, the occasional vista of rounded earth sliding into the haze that was the horizon. Colors easy on the eye as if they were being quiet so as not to disturb these sleepy hills.

I kind of rode that way, too. Easing through the curves, just letting the Ozarks seep in to me.

Then I'd run into some typical Arkansas weirdness:

John boy, I'll never wonder where that off the wall sense of humor of yours comes from again (family joke).







Ran 7 up through the little towns, finally through Jasper and the tight curves runnin' uphill out of town, to the turn off for 7s. A short climb up that steep little hill to the Hub. Turn in, see the 'scoots and Brothers wearing vests with Shields like mine on the back.

And for the first time in 5,100 miles, I wasn't alone.

More tomorrow.

01 September 2010

XC Run Day 26

De gustibus non est disputandum.


I can not find the beauty in Alabama nor Mississippi. I know it's there, but my eye slides by it. Restlessly searching the close trees, draped with the all invasive Kudzu, the small fields peeking from tiny cracks in that green wall, the occasional garishly red scar of dirt road, it finds nothing that penetrates beyond the retina to the brain and certainly not the soul.

It is not the land. It is me. Just not my cup of tea. But it did give me the opportunity to use the opening quote -- and that, especially for those of us who suffered through all those years of Latin, may be worth the price of admission.

Memphis is a three ring circus of trucks.

Trucks own Memphis. And they drive like it.

It reminds me of La Guardia years ago, when we'd be stacked three deep in the "Allys", watching the fuel gauges, shutting down engines when we could, waiting for the sound of freedom: "Mall 57, got your power spooled up?...you are cleared for short take-off, from taxiway double Julie, runway 24 --- good luck, five seven.". (Found out, years later, the controllers used to take bets, especially on hot days, on whether we'd make it or not.)

I rolled out of Columbus, MS this morning under clear blue skies. Temps in the low 70s. Perfect. It's only about 200 miles to Memphis, where I was to meet Bear & Co. the next morning, so I looked forward to an easy day rollin' through the middle of Mississippi, on roads I'd never traveled before. And it was.

Until Memphis.

Oh, nothing terrible happened. Nothing at all, really. Except trucks. I'm certified to teach, and for a long time in my career did teach, the National Safety Council's Professional Truck Driver's Defensive and Safe Driving Course. I believe I can assert, without fear of error, that none a them *$#@*! bozos in and around Memphis ever took my class.

There, I feel better now.

Memphis is, in many ways, America's distribution center. The nexus of a huge railhead for the Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railroad (probably the only time anyone will see Vermont and New Mexico in the same name) and several major Interstates including I-40, probably the biggest East-West artery in the country. So it's full of trucks. Lines and lines of trucks, in every lane, passin' each other, runnin' wherever they want. Ya just about have to run on the shoulder to see the road signs.

Obviously, I survived to merge onto 240, thence to I-40 and over the Mississippi to Arkansas and West Memphis, where I was to meet Bear at the Flying J at exit 182. Except the exits in West Memphis (which, Bear, until last night I had never heard of -- you did say Memphis, LOL) were in the 280s. So I took my life in my hands, pulled into the right lane, managed to find the Arkansas Welcome Station and got the heck off that insane road to call Bear.

Turns out he meant Nashville (heck, they're both in Tennessee) -- several hundred miles in my rear view mirrors.

Yup. I am now officially on the FMRC part of the trip, that's for sure. When it comes to runs and events, we are the most disorganized bunch on the planet and, to tell the truth, we, me included, like it that way. Drives the Gold Wing riders amongst us nuts (You were riding a quarter inch outside of your assigned place in the formation. My God, man -- look at the diagram, look at the diagram!) and makes the Harley Gods happy.

So, after Bear and I got done laughing, I pulled out onto that damn 40 -- and found a parking lot. Don't know what happened, but the few 4 wheelers had shut off their engines. Nuthin' but trucks as far as you could see and the sound of idlin' diesels. Fortunately, I was just shy of the turn off for 147, the way to old US 64 where I wanted to be anyway. Hit that aforementioned shoulder and headed Northwest.

I like Arkansas. It's soybean country in the eastern part of the state. Got some vistas -- big fields that stretch way out. Flat here, one sees, in the far distance, the hazy outlines of grain elevators miles away. I keep looking for the mountains, perhaps thinking I'm back in California, awaiting the sawtooth of peaks cutting into the horizon. But the Ozarks don't appear. They're old hills, stoop shouldered, worn down by eons. Little more than hills, really. They'll pop up eventually and they're pretty, been in 'em before.

So I ran the old road through the state, enjoying the cool of that big front moving through the country to do battle with Earl out in the ocean. And I hope it keeps him out to sea, but I worry too. This kind of collision breeds those big storms in the North Atlantic, especially off the Grand Banks. The kind that have made so many New England widows. Hope those little 'liners and draggers have found a safe harbor.

The Navy Hymn goes thus:


Lord, stand beside all those who sail
Our merchant ships in storm and gale,
In peace and war their watch they keep
On every sea, on thy vast deep.
Be with them, Lord, by night and day,
For Merchant Mariners we pray
.

Ten miles out of Russellville, back on 40, I felt the wind shift and knew I'd crossed the frontal boundary. The rain came and I pushed on into town and hunkered down for the night. Right at the beginning of the "Pig Tail", Highway 7, runnin' through the Ozarks to Marble Falls, the Hub and the Brethren.

So tomorrow I'll make that run. Might be wet, hope it'll be dry but I know it will be good.

And, a thousand miles or more from that storm tossed sea, my thoughts will still go, as they often do, to those men who go down to the sea in ships.

31 August 2010

XC Run Day 25

Internet connections are weird things. This one tonight is giving me fits. So this is gonna be short, since everything I've tried, from emails to the Bull Board for the Club has been on and off.

It was an easy 300 today. Alabama is soft country. Mississippi is the same.

Bear called me today and a bunch of us are gonna hookup in Memphis. After 4,600 miles on my own, I'm going to be riding with people again. Feels strange, but I'm looking forward to it.

I can see, at the bottom of this page, that it's not saving. Lost several hours of work that way early on.

So tomorrow I head to Memphis and Thursday morning a new chapter begins -- ridin' to the Rally with the Brothers.

Let's see what that brings...

30 August 2010

XC Run Day 24

I'm headed home. Oh, I have places yet to go, people yet to meet and sights yet to see, but; it was Saturday, I think, when I realized that I had gone as far East and South as I was going to go. Every mile I ride now is taking me North and West and, inexorably, home.

I am glad of it. I miss the West. Miss its vistas and grandeur. Miss its people, whom Loren C. Eiseley ("The Night Country: Reflections of a Bone Hunting Man") described as "...having horizons in their eyes.". I miss the Big Country. There are other things I miss, people and places, but they are personal. I hold those quietly and gently close to my breast.

Florida appeared in the rear-view mirrors today. So did Georgia. I've left a time zone behind. Headin' North and West. 27, 84 now 231, runnin', once again, on the edges of the storms. I keep wondering why the road is being so good to me. "A price will be paid." I keep thinking. I find myself already looking ahead to the Rockies in early September. Will it be extracted there? An early storm just as I'm cresting a pass? I'm not usually a pessimist, but I've been to this dance before, waltzed with Mother Nature. She has a sly, wicked sense of humor.

But today I was rollin' easy. Runnin' this red dirt country, hardly noticing what little there was to see. Little rollers now, slopes so slight and short you barely need touch the throttle to climb them. Runnin' through Dixie. Careful, right at the speed limit, not a mile over. Life in the right lane, big rigs barrelin' past, good 'ol boys in big Fords and Dodge Ram diesels comin' on up then whippin' out at the last minute to pass at what they considered as close as they dared. Good thing their idea of close and a Californian's is so different. On Highway 99 it would seem like tons of room.  Weren't that many of 'em, anyway.

I've started the process of contacting the Brothers North and East of here. Tryin' to put together a run for that long diagonal through Arkansas and up into the Ozarks. Surely would like to roll into Marble Falls about 20 strong, exhausts bellowin', announcing we're there. The Hub folks won't mind. The place we hold this thing bills itself as "America's Motorcycle Resort". They oughtta like it when ya' come in loud and strong like a Club should. We're Masons, our goal is not to terrorize the natives -- we just want to ride and visit with our Brothers and hang and get a little Club business done.

But 'scooter tramps do dearly love to make an entrance.

Talk to ya' tomorrow.

XC Run Day 21, 22 & 23 (I think)

Kinda got outa sync.

I've been writing in the mornings all week. Internet connections and bad computer ju-ju and such. Then leaving Deb's and runnin' across the State and talking to old friends 'till after midnight. It all just adds up.

See, this blog has mostly been written by a tired guy with tangled hair, burnt skin and images of the day still echoing in his head. Still gettin' the bugs out of his teeth and letting the sound of the V-twin subside. A guy who hadn't planned or "slept on it" or reflected. A guy writing from his gut. And blank you, Norman Mailer. (Never liked the fat, obnoxious sucker anyway.)

This blog, and its words, came from the saddle.

Well...

He's baaaack...

Good, bad or indifferent -- I'm sitting alone in a hotel room in Tallahassee, FL, stumblin' 'round the keyboard with fingers that will not yet fully uncurl and feeling right about that.  Oh, I don't regret the posts of the last week -- think that was how it was supposed to be for where I was and what was experienced. But this blog is about the journey and the 'scoot and what that means and, more importantly, what that produces.

I mean, let's face it children, I'm in no danger of ever becoming Evelyn Waugh, of whom another writer (was it Wodehouse?) remarked, that he every so often read Waugh "...just to see what pretty new things the Language had got up to.". I'm just a hack rambler and my stuff is best when it comes out raw, unfiltered -- straight from the road.

Friday I went to the ocean.

It was time. Time to peel it onto A1A, to stop at the place where I used to sit, with Richard Rice and Jack and all the others and talk to the young man now occupying that place -- in a modern, glassed-in, fiberglass "Lifeguard Station", not the old wooden shack we had -- about the beach and how it has changed and its shape and the reefs and how many fins they see and all of it. Time to gaze out upon her horizon and try to judge her mood, what she was thinking, what her currents were, what she had in store. It was time to run further down the island to the House of Refuge, built in the 1830's and still defiantly there, the last of the last of the old Coast Guard rescue stations on that whole coast. She is lovingly maintained (by a County and people who really get it)  and beautiful as ever, that little wood frame building. Standing, like a miniature queen herself, on her little ten foot bluff of coral cliff, staring at the might and majesty of that big ocean. And she doesn't blink. For though the brave men who manned her no longer row out into the surf in those frail wooden boats, to rob the Queen of a few survivors left from the wreckage she cast upon the reefs, the House, though a museum now, is still there.  Listening closely, I heard her say: "Look at me, I'm still here. And by being here I still rob you. I rob you like I did all those years ago, when those boys came out in the eye and hugged to my lee as the eye wall passed and you washed over the whole island. I rob you of me.".

Sometimes I think that when I'm done I should have someone lay my dust by her so that if and when the ocean does take her, I'll go to the deep with her, huggin' tight to her lee side, safe and at peace.

Old men talk too much.

I said my goodbyes to the ocean and went back to my sister's house. Packing bags, checking the 'scoot and starting the process of saying goodbye to them. And then it was Saturday and I hugged three generations of my family and got on the 'scoot and promptly threw it into neutral and got back off and hugged my little sister one more time and we promised, meaning it, that we wouldn't let this much time go by again and I hugged her one more time after that because I love her and because I'm an old man now and there are no guarantees.

Rollin' onto the road, I saw their waves in the mirrors and raised my arm once -- then, twisting the throttle, there was only me and the wind and the engine and the hum of the tires on that concrete goddess that holds my soul.

Florida has a hole in its middle. A big hole. And, like every hole in this State, it's full of water. Okeechobee it's called. Damn big lake. Hell, maybe that's what Okeechobee means in Seminole.

Ran out the Palm City road to the old Martin Highway. Out past Indiantown, where we had to change our spikes when we ran there, because they had a grass track 'cause those Seminole boys ran barefoot and fleet and proud the way Indians should. Down through that tunnel of trees, almost like a single canopy rain forest, that leads to the waters. Runnin' past the town now, into citrus and cattle country. Rollin' fast and hard, bright sky, dry roads, light wind. Headin' to the Gulf coast and an appointment 40 years overdue.

I hit Slattery in the face, hard.

Hit him with a hard, straight left, just like the old man, in his day a top contender in professional boxing, had taught me to. Hit him so hard that he saw stars and his eyes teared. And in that single act, I learned some of the great lessons of life. I learned of remorse. I learned of friendship. I learned that doing violence was often more painful than recieving it. I learned that not even the prettiest girl in the eighth grade at Our Lady of Perpetual Help school  was worth hurting a friend. That was over fifty years ago and I still remember it, and the anguish I felt, with absolute clarity. I try to hold that memory close, because over the years I have forgotten it once or twice and have had to re-learn those lessons with great pain and at even greater cost.

Never hurt the people you love.

Being human, frail and weak, makes that impossible. But, oh, one must try -- always.

I first met the boy who would become Timothy Patrick Slattery, LtCDR (Ret.), USN, sometime around Kindergarten. Two little boys in our white shirts, maroon ties with "OLPH" embroidered in gold upon them. Our cocoa brown belts, cocoa brown slacks, cocoa brown socks and cocoa brown shoes. Trundled off to the good Sisters of St. Dominic, OP -- the honest to God penguins -- to get an education. And a damn fine one, too. At a real Grammar, not Elementary, School -- Kindergarten through eighth -- and one sailed through the New York State Regent's Examinations and the prep school exams like they weren't there. Because those Nuns were unforgiving and deadly with those long thin wooden pointers and metal edged wooden rulers and meaner than a one eyed snake, but they were also smarter than hell and damn fine teachers. For all the bad that has been written of them, much of it true, I wish to God we had more of them in today's classrooms, unfettered by the current educational insanity, instead of the Alinskyised, self-centered, party-line spouting semi-literates we have inflicting lies and monotheistic neo-socialist pap upon the poor defenseless children of the day.

If I had strong feelings upon the matter -- which, obviously, I don't.

But one result of their teaching is that the errors one sees in this blog are usually on purpose. They taught me the rules. Well. They also taught me how to break them for effect.

And "Modules"? News flash: "Modules" are something we flew to the moon. How's your concept of 'em working out for you, Bunkie?

Tim's dad and mine, both WW II vets (those guys who later built and flew those "Modules" to the moon), bought modest but nice houses in a slightly upscale post war subdivision. It was a neighborhood of hard working, modestly successful people who had just finished the minor task of saving the entire world. Ike was new in the White House, they had survived both the Great Depression and a monstrous war, came home got themselves educations and good jobs and if one really looked at America, the streets were paved with gold. I have read too much of Washington and Adams and Jefferson to say, with absolute certainty, that our parents were the "Greatest Generation",  but if they weren't, they were a damn close second. But they did have one flaw -- and, in the end, maybe a fatal flaw for America, the land they loved and preserved and grew at so great a cost to themselves -- they spoiled their children.

We wanted for nothing.

Not rich by American standards, to about 98% of the rest of the world we grew up in unimaginable wealth and comfort. And with hopes beyond thought. America was as clear and golden as the maple leaves on a crisp fall day.

So it was in that cradle of decent, loving people, safety and comfort, that I met Slats. Barely past being toddlers, we grew and fought and played ball and discovered the world. Boys fought in those days. Had a fistfight, then laughed and played a game of baseball together. Secure in our world, our lives and each other.

We are two months apart in age. We lived on the same block, had the same friends, went to the same schools (OLPH and, later, Seaton Hall), in the same class. Played in our very first band together (a polka band and very bad). Miss-used our first cuss words together because we had never heard our parents use them and didn't really know what they meant. He is one of the few people left on the planet who, like me, knows that Father Rampmier could say weekday Mass and eat breakfast in twenty minutes flat.

Important, seminal stuff.

But as time went on, our family traveled more and I began to tell the litany of places and schools and homes, like the beads on Sister Mary Agony's rosary, that would continue throughout my life. Our last real year together was '60-'61, our first (and my only) year at the Hall. Oh we'd see each other when my family was in from Florida or Pax River or wherever the airplanes had dragged us, but that was the final year of Harps and Slats.

And then, High School was over and Tim went off to Marist College and I went on the road (what else?) with the Jesters and then to the Army.  And, no, he didn't know O'Reilley at Marist. Tim was Editor of the school paper his senior year -- OReilley was a Freshman and had not yet made the staff (in conversation I found Tim monumentally disinterested in that fact). But thanks for asking.

We had little contact after that. Heard from him when I was at Bragg, a young 2LT in 7th Special Forces Group, when he allowed me the enormous privilege of writing one of the letters of recommendation for his commission as a Naval Officer. I stand by, today, the words I wrote all those years ago. "I have known Mr. Slattery almost our entire lives. I know everything about him and, as a military officer myself, I would not hesitate, and indeed be honored, to serve with him in harm's way anywhere, anytime."

Slats is steady.

Next saw him in '71, right after he was back from Country. Roared up to his place on a 'scoot, on my way to New York. Spent a day with him and his new bride, Nan, Bruce's (our classmate at the Hall) twin. Neither of us knew it would be forty years before we spoke again.

Timothy Francis and Timothy Patrick: Harps & Slats
So I rolled across Florida, through St. Pete and Clearwater, to Slat's house, to keep that appointment 40 years overdue.

It was a good visit with him and that little slip of a girl that is his bride, of 42 years now, and friend. It was a time of children and careers and thoughts on the state of the universe. Easy and stress free, because when people share, so closely, the truly formative years, they know too much of each other for any posturing or artifice (there's none of that in him anyway) to exist. He is a man that has known the anger of that big ocean, as well. Seen it so angry that it buckled the flight deck and cracked a major bulkhead on an aircraft carrier, for goodness sake. Gives one perspective on our place in the universe, on how inconsequential we really are. Just plain knocks all the BS outta 'ya.

We talked till after midnight, visited the next day and then it was about 1430 and time to roll.

Zipper and her people, Nancy and Tim
I do not know if I will ever see my friends Tim and Nancy again. I hope to. I hope to be able to show them the West, a place that in all their 21 years of Navy travels they've never really been. Hope to get to swing by as I ensure that I spend more time with my own sister.

But, who knows? No guarantees on this road. If I do not, well, my memory of Slats is as steady as the man himself and will be to my final breath.






Runnin' north on 98, the road was kind to me. I ran that road straight and clean, between storms drenching west Florida and never felt a drop. Ran it north to Tallahassee and the room and the thoughts and the feelings. Ran it north, as it seems I always do now, to the words.

27 August 2010

XC Run Day 21

40 lbs. of air in the tires. Nuts and bolts are tight. My laundry is done and my bags are dry, ready to be loaded. Time, once again, to turn my head to the road.

Time to roll.

It's been a good time here. And though I've not had enough time with the whole gang, especially with my little sister, I'm ready. Ready for the highway and the wind, ready for the sights and sounds, ready to be free, rollin' on the 'scoot.

Hurricanes are comin'. Oh, they're a long way out yet, but; it's late August and they've been peeling themselves off Africa for a bit already. No idea where they'll land and I've been through so many in my life that it's no big deal -- but I'm glad I'm heading out before the leading edges hit.

Motorcycles and hurricanes are not the best mix.

I'm sitting under bright blue skies in the hot Florida sun, lazing about, calm and quiet. But, out in her empty reaches, the Queen is hard at work, cookin'. Giving up her heat and water, her essence, to build the big walls of water and wind that will scour this land. Sometimes it's just a little reminder, a love tap, of who she really is. Once in a while she will roar and bellow and rage and slam herself into this place, proclaiming her dominion, her thunderous voice screeching:  "I am the Queen and I rule.".

By tomorrow evening I'll be on the Gulf. A day or two later, I'll be a State or two away. So, not this season, y'old witch. Not this season.

There is a place in the Gulf where one of the Universities has built a shack on a barrier island. Each year they choose a writer who gets to go out there and work for the summer. I've been coming to this Starbucks for almost a week now. People are starting to talk to me. They're very nice and interesting but writing interspersed with pick up conversations is not a productive pursuit.

I find myself longing for that shack.

Tomorrow, I'll be a couple of hundred miles from here, alone in a room. Able to hold a thought.

Talk to you then.

26 August 2010

XC Run Day 20

Today is about gravy. 

Yesterday was an easy day. Up by 0630, off to Starbucks and the Wi-Fi connection and the blog -- as has become my habit since I've been here. Struggled through that puppy till after noon. Just sitting and writing and watching the people come and go, the occasional face stirring some recognition, only to see it evaporate as quickly as those little storms from the ocean.

Another day of riding about and finding myself totally lost until I stumble, with great surprise, upon a familiar place that just appears, out of context it seems, all points of reference gone.

But I have remembered how to ride the back edge of the storm.

When one learns to ride down here, one learns that the rain is most often tense, tight little showers that come from ocean squalls. If you can read the sky and know the roads, most often you can get around and never feel a drop. Ridin' cool in the gust fronts that surround the cells. So while I may be lost most of the time, I've been mobile and dry all week.

Last night was dinner with my other nephew, Jared. He's one of us who got the family cooking gene, it seems. Good rib-eyes, good talk, good evening.

But today is about gravy. For while there is almost no Italian left in our side of the family -- Debbie and I are about one eighth, I think -- Italian is not a recessive gene. The "gravy" (spaghetti sauce) recipe in the family comes from Gabrielle Cassano, Salerno, Italy, our great-grandfather. And though generations of our family use it, everyone's tastes completely different.

Tonight, I'm making my version for my family. Takes about eight hours. So I'm going home to cook. And a bunch of the kids are coming over and hopefully it will be loud and animated and fun.

Like I said, Italian is not a recessive gene. (I can hear my sister yelling about that comment from here.)

Talk at ya' tomorrow.   

25 August 2010

XC Run Day 19

It was Hemingway, I believe, who said that a writer is someone who wrote yesterday, writes today and will write tomorrow. Even when one has nothing to say.

So it is important to continue, notwithstanding the only recipient is the dust bin.

Back in the 90's, I wrote a radio commentary for an NPR affiliate. Doing so, I discovered a number of things. I found that, at the root, I am a poet and write like one. Too much Frost and ee cummings and Ferlinghetti as a youth, I suppose. I found that short formats were my métier. I found that if I went back and tried to edit, I just screwed it up worse. And, above all, I found that, like most who attempt this insane craft, lots of the time I really didn't like it much at all. The process or the result.

With the commentary it wasn't that hard (a little aside,here -- I've timed a few of these blogs out. With my delivery and cadence they tend to hit right on 4 1/2 minutes. "Surprise, surprise..." said Gomer.). Once a week. I'd procrastinate and fume and think for the whole week. Then I'd sit down, pour it all onto the page, roar on down to the studio, grab my frantic Producer and lay it down on tape at the very last second.

Ah, V.J., girl, maybe some day you'll forgive me.

That was weekly -- this blog is a daily affair and, as I'm finding, that can be hard. 4-5 hours a day of trying to shape, craft, express, the thoughts and feelings and experience of the day in a manner not too self indulgent and maybe even entertaining. In looking back over these pages, I've found that, (even though this entire trip is, of itself, a huge self indulgence), on a very few occasions, I may have even succeeded. But that didn't make it easier.

The other thing about this blog, is that it is about a trip. A journey. I've now been in the same place for five days. And not just any place. The place where I grew up and lived and discovered so much. The place that is no longer anything like my little home town, but still is taking me back to the old Love-Hate feelings of so many years ago.

The time with my family is wonderful and a big part of me doesn't want it to end, but I'm realizing that, at the end of the week, when it is again time to kick a tire, light the fire and follow that skinny front wheel down the road, my heart will not be broken. I'm, with the exception of my family, a stranger here. Riding about not recognizing much of anything or anyone. A westerner on the East Coast. Flashes of memory occasionally sliding by, sometimes too fast to catch.

I'm sitting in a Starbucks where we used to hunt panther and nothing here calls to me anymore except that old ocean to the east and I find myself staying away from her and the only time I feel at home is in the warm love of my sister's house.

And, for someone like me? Suppose that's how it should be.

24 August 2010

XC Run Day 18 (?)

I am losing track of the days.

Happens on a long ride. They blend and meld and merge after a week or two on the road, because motorcycles are so much more about the journey than the destination. Riding open and exposed, one is ever lured by the soft murmur of the sleepy byways, the old roads, and one rides through portals of time and is drawn, always, into the country.

I have spent far too little time with my sister over the years. Part of it is age, I am seven years older and Debbie was only 10 or 11 when I left home for good. Part of it was the battle cry I took up when I left at 18 all those years ago: "Happiness is Florida in the rear view mirror". Most of it was just me. My incessant need to find out what was over the next hill, around that curve and -- where does that road lead?

I am currently sleeping on a bed upon which I last laid my head more than sixty years ago and many miles away.

Got to tell you about that bed.

When I was very young, we still lived on the island where I was born. It doesn't exist anymore. Oh, it's still physically there, but; the long, empty expanse of land jutting into the cold waters of the North Atlantic, with its potato farms inland and small fishing villages along its coasts, is no longer. The great metropolis to the west has metastasized along its length and it is now a sardine can of city workers.

But in those days it was still an island, remote, the hinterland. We lived in a little village on the Great South Bay and our house and my grandparent's house were across a canal from each other. Being Catholic, we did not eat meat on Fridays. So, often, my grandmother would make clam chowder -- and not that gelatinous goop they have in Boston, no this was that tart, tangy, red chowder, filled with tiny cubed potatoes and carrots and fennel and those little clams just dug that day from the shallows of the bay just yards away. Sometimes I would get to go fetch it.

Picture this: a little boy (maybe 5?) embarking upon the great adventure of taking one of those small milk cans, climbing down his dock to a small dory and rowing across a great expanse of water (less than 100 feet) to his grandparents house (my parents and grandparents peeking out their windows, of course, at every stroke -- but I didn't know that) to collect dinner. Sometimes I would get to spend the night with them. And when I did, one of two things would happen -- they would put a cot between the two beds they had or I'd get to sleep in one. The same one I'm sleeping on now. And I go to sleep feeling small and somehow -- old hard-ass combat vet and 'scooter tramp that I am -- safe.

That my sister would still have those beds in one of her guest rooms -- they are really well made and of good wood and look not that different than when they came from the maker's shop -- and perhaps one other thing, tell you all you need to know about my sister. The other thing is, a few years back I was helping a young friend of mine and we were working with a pitching coach. At one point I tossed the ball back to the coach and he commented: "Hey, you've got quite an arm yourself." "Ha," I said, "that's nuthin' -- y'oughta see my sister's!".

Debbie is a four foot, nuthin' ball of constant energy and motion. She's the one who knows and remembers everyones' birthday and how they're doing and their kid's names and, it seems, everything. She is the rock and the glue. Mom and MiMi. And she takes care of everybody, from Big John, her husband of more than thirty years, who loves her like life itself and who's been my family so long the "in-law" part makes no sense, to the kids to the grandkids. She even puts up with the world's worst big brother, a fact that never ceases to amaze.

But the best thing is, she smiles a lot. She does that because she's a happy woman who loves her family and her life.

A friend of mine used to always say: "Love. What was the question?"

"Chops" & "California Doc".
Sunday was just plain fun.

My nephew, Joel, John and Deb's oldest, loves them 'scooters as much as I do. His Club was having its annual bash and he invited me to go with him. It's a good group, not 1%, just a bunch of guys who love to ride and party and hang. I got to be the proud Uncle, tellin' his Brothers, many of them my age: "...see, he didn't pick this 'scooter stuff up in the street (though his Dad rides too)". And, maybe, he got to be the proud nephew ("This is my Uncle Tim, he rode it all the way from California, man!).

A good bash. Lots of Clubs from the Christian MCs to 1% outlaws and there was no trouble and nobody got bent. And that, for those of you in the Life, tells you a lot about his Club.

I got to tell Joel, much to his surprise, about his great-grandfather and his Harley, roaring about when you started them with bicycle pedals.

We hung all day, laughing and talking and hangin' and then got to go home and eat eggplant parmigiana made the way my Mother used to make it.

I'm having way too much fun for an old man.  

23 August 2010

XC Run Days 16 & 17

The old backyard.

"I am haunted by waters." 

When I first read Norman Maclean's words, I did not need to ponder nor reflect. For me, as for any who grew up on the great waters of this land and had even half a soul, they were a simple statement of fact. As in: "Hard a'lee" is not, to me, a romantic term of the windships. It means: "Watch yer head, dummy -- boom's comin'". Far more prose than poetry, yet within lays the deepest poetry of all.

Leaving DeLand, I lit it up East. East, past the Spanish Moss and scrub, past Bubba's hallowed ground ("Daytooohnah, man!"), East to US 1 and that strong smell that could only be the Indian River.

Interesting river, the Indian. Incredibly broad and shallow, it's not really a river at all. It is a huge, long, narrow lagoon of the Atlantic bordered by a succession of barrier islands broken here and there by inlets. With the ocean to the east and the rivers of America's eastern watershed to the west, draining off the few inches of sand that is Florida, it is a place of battle, too. Salt against fresh and from that struggle comes --- that smell.

Never could decide if I love it or hate it (though, when the Hydrogen Sulfide levels are up, depending on the red algae, that question does tend to become moot).

Time to turn south on US 1. On to the highway were I learned to drive and ride a 'scoot. On to memory lane.

Fortunately, one of the first memories to come flooding back was that if you see Mary Jo comin' out of a parking lot or side road and you're in the right lane, better get over -- 'cause she ain't stoppin'. But, then, I ride California's Hwy 99 -- compared to that death trap this is the minors.

Rollin' down the old highway through Coco and Titusville and Melbourne, I found myself glad that my Dad, and so many of the others who turned their lives over to the dream of giving their children the stars, wasn't here to see. They're gutting NASA, closing it down, to pay for the flavor of the day programs the current crop hope will insure their continued power.

Aerospace Engineers are working at Starbucks. The lucky ones, anyway.

Past the Cape, it was time to turn left again. Over the Indian and on to A1A (Sorry Jimmy, that ain't your road, never was. It's MINE, Bubba, and I'm as big a Parrot Head as anyone). Took it as long as I could.

Oh, it was good to see the old bathtub again, to feel the on-shore breeze, to taste the tang of salt. But this was the place where Wolfe's admonition truly took hold, with the condos and hotels and the monstrosity that is Ron-Jon's.

I took the next bridge west.

Back on 1 I stopped at Palm Bay in an old motel. Treated myself to a good meal at "The Shack", where Dad and I had eaten so many years before. Fresh Pompano, simply grilled, and Conch fritters on a screened-in terrace overlooking the Indian is awful hard to beat.

Back to the motel, I wrote until three, peeking now and again out the window as drug dealers and prostitutes circled the 'scoot. The locals moved 'em on, and I went to sleep with the tart wind of the Indian my lullaby. 

Getting up on Saturday morning, I finished up the blog, loaded up the 'scoot and began the short trek into what I've always called "Tropical Florida". For me, this country really starts somewhere around Melbourne. Indescribably beautiful and horridly ugly.. The land of the Savannas, that scrubby sandy plain that grows into the Everglades. The land of sand dunes and sea grass. The land ruled by that Queen Bitch of all oceans: the North Atlantic. John McPhee, another favorite writer, once said that it was not by mistake that the lowest mark of the Plimsoll line on every ship was labeled "WNA". "Winter, North Atlantic".

We just call it hurricane season.

Today she was FAC. "Flat Ass Calm". But she didn't fool me, born and raised on her. Oh, I love her -- always and forever -- but I know she doesn't give one whit about me, except maybe for that brief moment, for which she always waits, when she can suck me down into her cold deep and feast upon my flesh and my bones and my soul. And while she's come close, more than once, she hasn't had me yet and now, an old man, my days of daring her past, I doubt she ever will, I still keep a weather eye on her. For she is quick and always aware and the lover that never lets go.

But I'm steamin' south. To the place I know and immediately get lost and find roads with familiar vistas and different names. To that movable feast of children and grandchildren, of nieces and nephews and dogs and noise and raucous love and life that is Debbie's house. I'm steamin' south to family. 

I'm steamin' south to Home. 

22 August 2010

XC Run Day 15

Yesterday's today.

Really kind of sounds way too sixties, doesn't it?

Didn't have a Wi-Fi connection, so today, Sunday, I'm writing Friday and Saturday. Tonight, hopefully, I'll write today. Confused?

Welcome to my world...

The Rotunda at the Deland Courthouse
Jackson.

My friend Jack has been an artist as long as I've known him. One of those people one meets along the way whom one just knows has the kind of gift the rest of us only dream about. I remember my daughter, also a painter, who at the age of 10 or so, brought home a painting from school which we hung on the wall -- and I would stare at it for hours, wondering how someone that age could put so much on canvas and be so damn deep.


That's Jack.

And like many gifted people, it cost him. As it has often been said: making art (of any type) is like making sausage. Just enjoy the result -- you do not want to see the process.

But today we'll assay the results.

DeLand or Deland -- I see it spelled both ways, is a beautiful old town. Caught between several areas of the State, it is not yet tropical Florida, nor is it truly a full on part of the center or the northern cultures. It is unique in so many ways. Home of Stetson University, it is both upscale and pure Florida Cracker ("Cracker", by the way, is a Florida term, not Southern. The swamp cowboys, in the old days, used bull-whips to herd the cattle. Hence...). DeLand has also become a place focused on Florida history. Which brings us, again to Jack.

Upper level.
And lower...
Jack is a fourth generation Floridian. A number of years ago, he became enthralled by the history of the State and his people. By the stories his Father and Grandfathers told, by the Seminole, by the legends and the land. And, also, a number of years ago, his wife, Nancy, gave him a very great gift. "Paint", she said, "I'll pay the bills." The result has been a body of work quite unlike most you will ever see. And, having been a combat soldier at a time in his life, many of his scenes are about battles and the military in Florida.

So it was that he was eventually noticed and asked to do some commissions for the Florida National Guard, which now hang in Tallahassee and Washington, DC. These were noticed and through a long chain of events he became the Artist-in Residence at the Museum of Florida Art, in DeLand. Along with that, his collection "Legendary Florida" now hangs on permanent display in that amazing rotunda.

Yes, it was a process like making sausage and though, like all who have a soul open enough to create, he still struggles and worries about stagnation and narrow vistas and venues and sometimes the bills, my friend Jackson is able to work and do what he was born to do.

Saying, that bright afternoon, as much of a goodbye to one another as we have ever said, I held that thought close. There are no tomorrows guaranteed on this journey -- we both learned that, and learned it hard, long ago. But, for my friend Jackson, no matter what happens, the work will remain.

Not too shabby for an ol' Cracker from Martin County.

21 August 2010

XC Run Day 14

Jack Walker at his downtown studio.
I want to tell you about my old friend, Jackson. But to tell that story, I'll need to tell you somewhat of me (I am reminded of Watson's assertion about "The Giant Rat of Sumatra": "...a tale for which the world is not yet ready.").

For, you see, Jackson and I intertwine and cross and diverge and re-cross throughout our childhoods and lives like ocean cattails on the edge of a storm.

Jack is a son of Florida. I am a child of the Road.

Oh, he's seen the world, He's "been there and done that". But his being -- and most of his life -- has been here, as deeply rooted and tenacious as that sea grass on the dunes that remains even after the hurricane has washed away all else.

Me? I have a hard time deciding what my home region is, not to mention my home State or Town. My Dad was in the aviation industry -- in Flight Test -- and all of those families moved. A lot. And often. But there were "staples", if you will. New York -- the Island -- or California, depending on your Company and whether they made airplanes for the Navy or the Air Force; Maryland and, for us especially (because Dad got involved in the very beginning of the Space Program), Florida. Specifically, Jensen Beach, Florida. It eventually became their permanent home, partly because they liked it and partly because they wanted to give their daughter, at least, a place to call "Home". She lives there to this day, and I am glad of it. And, though I lasted only about a year after they built a permanent home there -- I had spent too much time on the road by then, and they knew it, and I had to keep going -- my parents did give me a hometown.

And in doing that, my parents, in a sense, gave me Jack Walker. For while my story of Florida is cracked and broken like the pavement on many of those old highways I love to travel so much, one of its great constants is Jack. In many ways Jack is my anchor to Florida and to a big part of my youth. For whether we were in and out several times in a year or there for a year or more, Jack and I just seemed to pick right back up as if I'd never left. To this day, I can't recall where the breaks were.

And after more than thirty years, most of it not even knowing for sure where the other was, the last two days have felt, to me, just the same. It was just Jack, whom I've never doubted for a second since the day I met him.

So the last two days have been good days. Yesterday was for the past and it was a gift. For while our story continued a bit after we were both back from Viet Nam, a lot of yesterday was of the time before that. A day of Sea Scouts and trying to sneak into the girl's school on Indian River Drive and sailboats and JQ & The Jesters. It was of old schoolmates and friends. Of Norine and me and Jack and Denise, Of Jill and Danny and Buck Mauldin and Carol and Dottie Fox and playing music and adventures. It was a time of two young men just discovering the world and, at a few very precious moments, I felt we were again those two young men who had not yet felt the gut-ache of combat and the agony of seeing the result of your having just taken another human being's life. Two young men who had not yet learned the great lesson of war: there is no glory in victory, there is only survival.

There was catching up, too. The litany of what had happened since we last saw each other; the successes and failures, the good and the bad. We talked of the struggle of trying to create. Of being productive and then dry -- as I have been for the last ten years -- and having to almost re-learn your craft all over again.

I got to meet Nancy -- his wife, friend, partner of almost 30 years -- whom I found, with great gladness, I like really a lot.

I want to tell you of my friend Jackson, but in telling that story I need tell you somewhat of myself. So I have. But it is a story like those highways, a bit cracked and broken.

A story best told in pieces.

19 August 2010

XC Run Day 13

Well, it's long after midnight here in Florida.

Got in touch with my old friend Jack and spent a long day reminiscing. Got to the hotel only to find internet problems. Seems they only use cables here (I asked 'em how Bill and Hillary were doin' in the White House...cables? Sheesh...) Seems the one runnin' to the lamp dealie was all screwed up. Just go it fixed.

It was a full and wonderful day, but; do you really care what happened to Gloria and John after they moved up north? Or that Jill moved back to Stuart after all those years in Jacksonville? Or, sadly, that neither of us has been able to find out anything about Tom "Tonto" Powell, our Bass player and friend, and both fear he never made it home from Viet Nam.

Didn't think so.

Oh there were stories of broader interest, but tomorrow we're going to meet at his studio and go over to the Museum of Florida Art where he's Artist-in-Residence, and view some of his work in public buildings -- so there'll be pictures and tales to tell.

Tonight, I'm  tired and barely able to type, much less make coherent sentences.

Time to sleep.

Later 'Gators...

18 August 2010

XC Run Day 12

Florida is all about water.

Today seemed the mirror image of yesterday. Got up this morning to clear blue skies. So I loaded up the 'scoot in the manner I'm used to in sunny CA and walked back to the room to check for anything I might have left. Heard a sound like someone emptyin' a bucket. Turned around to see, outside, what looked like somebody emptyin' a bucket. I think the Texasism for it is: "Rainin'? Son, sounded like a cow pissin' on a flat rock."

Seems I'd forgotten to check around the back side of the motel (South East, of course) to spot that fast mover runnin' in from the Gulf.

Aw, heck, the important stuff was in plastic bags...

But it only lasted a few minutes and then it all calmed down and I took off on US 98 to run the Panhandle. Really was an easy day. Only hit real rain enough to gear up once, rest of it was -- get a little wet, let the air dry ya' in about 5 minutes.

I started off in the more upscale part of it all -- Ft Walton Beach, Destin, et al. A bit Yuppified for my taste now, not as fun, and a little funky in places, as it was when I was a kid. Reminds me of that 'Retha Franklin song: "Chains, chains, chains...".

But even that has its benefits.

To wit: There is a good probability that the Baptist's Lady's Sewing Circle of Destin, Florida, will be talking for weeks about "some crazy man on one a them big 'ol LOUD motorcycles -- with them big high handlebars, ya' know? -- who just went all of a suddin' real fast and run straight across three lanes of traffic and made a great big ol' U turn (rear wheel slidin' all the way, Brothers) right into thayut big ol' new Bass Pro Shop they done put up on 98".

The sacred glasses have been replaced. Hallelujah and Amen. (Sorry, down here just trying to find the Weather Channel, one must go through about 50 channels of Televangelists. In the mornings they have women televangelists. Imagine Oprah: white, southern and Christian. I know --one shudders...)

They cost a bit more now, of course, but they still have them in different sizes for both glasses and faces. They're called "Cocoons" and I've never seen them anywhere else. They just work. Can I get an Amen? Thank ya' Brothers and Sisters.

So, properly attired, I continued on, happy to have provide the Ladies an opportunity to talk about something other than what Pastor Ruth had to say  on th' TeeVee that mornin'.

Rolled into Port St. Joe, where one can just begin to see, in the hazy distance, the long body of Florida as it stretches itself South to form the great eastern edge of the Gulf. Getting into, now, what they call the "Forgotten Coast". Old Florida, my favorite, little towns like Beacon Hill and Ward Ridge and the sleepy gem that is Apalachicola. No "Sammy's" or "Hard Rocks" here. Just old Florida houses and local businesses and, sometimes, some surprisingly upscale beach homes owned by that dying breed -- people with both money and style. Ran that coast all the way to the turn south. People here call it the "Big Bend". As kids, being Atlantic Ocean Floridians, we called it the "Armpit". Older now, I see it for what it is. Beautiful and still largely unspoilt, the condos and hotels not yet here to block the sea and sky.

It's a fine ride.

Time now to run into the interior of the State, to the cattle ranches and horse country, to the citrus groves and the farms. But it's still about water. For while this place is a place of coastline -- the Gulf, the Atlantic, the Caribbean -- over all of its reach; the interior is a place of water as well. There seems a river around every curve, running dark and deep, and one runs through marsh and swamp and savanna as the whole Eastern part of America from the Appalachians on drains down to Okeechobee and beyond to the  uniqueness that is the 'Glades.

Florida is all about water.

17 August 2010

XC Run Day 11

Whew!

Some day. One of those times when ya' just hang on. Started out good. It was dry this morning so I got to load the 'scoot without tryin' to find some cover. Didn't even gear up till Baton Rouge. Just started to drizzle when I spied a Starbucks and zipped on in. Threw on the gear and got back after it. Just stayed on the Interstate and banged trough it. It just kept building until I hit New Orleans, then it got serious. Always seems to work that way, don't it? Most traffic, crazy drivers and a real butt kicker of a storm. Same thing happened in Mobile, only worse. Wind was unbelievable.

Laughed like heck a lot of the day, though. Those of you that ride know that puttin' on rain gear is a pain. Plus, it's hot. Well, I had one of those days where if I put on the gear, it stopped. If I stopped and took the gear off, it'd wait till I was some place where I just couldn't pull over and then pour like mad.

Typical, but funny none the less.

Ran US 90 along the Gulf when I could. 90, unlike many of the "old" roads, thanks to the beach and the Military, is very much alive. Especially around Gulfport and Boloxi. But aside from those two places the best thing I can say for Mississippi is this: it don't take too long to get through.

Next.

Not the kind of day where one stops to shoot cutesy photos either, or reflect upon much of anything except whether or not Cletus is going to try to kill you with his 1972 Ratmobile truck or anything else. He did, he missed. I was ready for him.

Ah, well, better 'n 40 years ago. They were shootin' at me then. (Really.)

All this ridin' in Bubba's country has caused me to wonder about somethin', though. J'ever notice that Bubba is always either shirtless, in a cut off or (for dress occasions) a Tank Top. Yet he always has a "farmer's tan".
How's he do that? Tan arms, pale as all getout from mid bicep up.

Must be some miracle of nature.

So I banged it all the way to Fort Walton Beach on US 98. Found a Thai place for dinner. Knew it'd be good. This is Air Force country and those Zoomies know their Thai food. It was as I expected: fresh, well made and real.

Not much of a report tonight, but tomorrow I'll be heading towards DeLand and I'll start tellin' ya' about my friend Jack. He's an artist and we go back almost 50 years. We rock 'n rolled together (he guitar, me drums) and hung out and discovered Dylan together and more.

Oh, yeah, there'll be stories tomorrow...

See ya' then.

16 August 2010

XC Run Day 10

It was a day for motorcycle maintenance.

Nothin' wrong with the 'scoot, but Nick went back to his duty station last night, Stephanie was working and Sofia was at Nanny's -- so I went through and turned some wrenches, making sure everything was tight, things were not going to fall all over the road, tires were wearing evenly, simple stuff. Even put that permanent fix on the saddlebags that ol' West Texas boy suggested. Expensive, though. Hardware was $2.97 at Home Depot and the shoelaces a dollar fifty seven at Wal-Mart.

Like the way that ol' boy thinks.

Rain came through early. Seems that pesky depression in the Gulf changed its mind and went back out. Sent us a pretty good present at about 0600, but decided to save the best for tomorrow. Musta heard I decided that was my "window".

Gonna be a wet one. A real wet one like only the South Coast can get. So, with great trepidation I hied myself down to the Harley dealership to finish up my rain gear. That stuff's expensive and even though I had just a few small items to get, I'd priced them back home and decided to wait. Didn't even expect to be able to get it -- I ain't exactly John Wayne, ya see... Forgot that: A.) I wasn't in California any more, Toto and; B.) I'm in Cajun country -- most of us are not exactly John Wayne. So I got what I needed for less than half of what it would have cost back home and it actually fits.

Works for me.

Spent the rest of the day reminiscing as I toured Lafayette and Breaux Bridge. Pont Breaux got its name 'cause there was a bridge build by the Breaux family over Bayou Teche. Simple enough, but then we're a simple people. Upon meeting you a Cajun is really only interested in the answers to three questions: Who's y'Mama; are you Catholic and can you make a roux?

It's a real (as much as one can be nowadays) Cajun town. As in: little town, big church (remember question #2? There may be a test).

One of the things I had forgotten though, is that it is a tourist town. Has it jacked up a bit -- but the folks here do a pretty good job of keeping it from getting too far away from real. Still runs kind of slow and easy around here like the bayou under that bridge.

Finally it was time to "pass by Stephanie's house" (it's a Cajun thing) and have a farewell dinner with her and  Sofia. Mais, dat girl can cook, Cher. Bittersweet. It was a wonderful visit.

Time tonight, now, to get the gear ready for rain. Check the seal on plastic bags, do some repacking for the wet, get things in order. Nobody teaches you to get ready for being out in bad weather like the services that have ground troops. The Army and Marines. Thanks, Uncle Sammy. My gear will be squared away and dry.

So, "Once more into the breach, dear friends...". It's Willy Nelson time. Slow going, I'll bet. I'm an old man now and I don't run as hard in the wet as I used to.

Talk to you tomorrow, hopefully around Pensacola under clear skies. And if they're not -- heck "If it ain't rainin', ya' ain't trainin'".

Hooah...

15 August 2010

XC Run 2010 Day 9

Someone once told me that Sundays were best used by being with family.

I spent the day with part of mine, mostly playing with a 2 year old.

Mighty fine.

Talk to you tomorrow.

14 August 2010

XC Run Day 7

A day that starts with good buckwheat waffles with real maple syrup and ends with Borden's ice cream can't go real wrong.

Just a fact.
The storms hit today. Glad I wasn't on the road. There's been a Tropical Depression worrying the Gulf and Florida and it started moving through.

But me -- I was warm and dry in a house full of family. So, despite the fact that I do hear the road callin', I do not find myself between Scylla and Charybdis. Not because of the weather. Because the precious time with these people is hard to come by and the road is always there.

So it was an easy day of visits and conversations, of walking like penguins and talking of cows and monkeys. A day of naps and doing what one wanted or the simple demands of a two year old required. It was finally a day of saying good night to the moon (la lune).

Along the way I fixed my handlebars -- the mechanic was wrong, didn't take 10 minutes, took about 5.

Along the way I left my helmet, upside down, on the 'scoot in the middle of a torrential downpour. My friend, John, who's ridden this country forever, when I told him about it, laughed and said: "yeah, but it's cool..." (it was, too, when I road home).

Along the way we went down to Lafayette for the Art Walk and sushi. Now, I've got to tell you -- I know the art scene in Lafayette's always been pretty good (creative area, always has been), but sushi? I mean I live in California, fer goodness sake -- sushi's important to us. My expression of surprise at how good this was prompted from my daughter The Look (it's a family thing) and a reminder of where I was. "Dad", she said, "don't you remember how seriously we take food down here?". (Oh, yeah, and you just picked up being an insane foodie in the street, didn't you Tim...).

We wandered around downtown, dropping into galleries as we shuffled through the close, muggy Acadian evening. I spent most of it lost, it's changed so much, but occasionally stumbling upon a familiar sight. Keller's bakery, which makes the best King Cakes; past Dwyer's, lookin' rather fancy now, but in the old days you could get an honest to goodness "Blue Plate Special" there for cheap; on by the breezeway at the bank where my company would set up a BBQ and we'd all eat sausage and chicken as we watched the parade at Carnival (Mardi Gras) and the woman, the mother, walking by me tonight with her husband and child was the size of her little girl and would sit on my shoulders to watch the floats and yell out "Throw me somthin' Mister..." and laugh with glee as coins and beads rained down around us.

Then to Borden's.

Got to tell you about Borden's.

Back about 80 years ago or so, before the Interstates and refrigerated tankers and such, the Borden company built "cooling stations" for the trucks that had to carry the milk more than a hundred miles or so. They'd stop, run the milk through cooling tubes to get it cold enough so it wouldn't spoil, pump it back in the truck and head on off to wherever. Along about the end of the Depression, just before WW II, they turned this one into an ice cream parlor. There it sat for generations of  Acadian folks. Kind of a landmark, they had some employees that worked there for over 50 years. Started to go down hill in the '80s and '90s. Few years back a local boy made good bought the place, turned it over to his daughter and she set about putting it back to it's Art-Deco sliding into the Forties glory.

We sat there, memories flooding back, spinning on vinyl counter stools as we slurped up an America that rarely exists anymore.

So while I heard, as a faint echo, that ol' Road, singin' her siren song, I wasn't bitin' tonight. Keep singin', I told her. Been on you all my life. I hear you and I know you own me -- always have, always will -- and my tires will be on you soon enough. But not tonight.

Tonight -- I'm having ice cream with Sofia.

13 August 2010

XC Run Day 7

Funny kind of day. I've been so into getting up, hit the shower, load the 'scoot, get on the road -- I felt a little lost this morning. I was more or less where I was going for the next several days. No plans for what road to take, where might the gas be, what's the weather going to be like.

Got up late, this Friday the Thirteenth. Thought a bit about Jacques DeMolay and the Knights Templar -- the reason for the whole thing we have about it. As a Templar myself, it has some real meaning for me.

Went outside to get the feel of the day and ran into the French couple from the room next to mine. Nice folks, they were in the US for the first time. She had no English and he very little, but with my fractured French and his bit of English we managed to have a good visit. They were on their way to New Orleans but were going to stop in Breaux Bridge first. He pointed to a pamphlet he had for a tour. Though written in English, it had, in French of course, that they spoke French. He asked if I thought anyone there might really speak French then wondered why I started laughing. Mon Amie, I said, in that town it's sometimes harder to find someone who doesn't speak French. Don't know if he believed me, but I directed him to a favorite restaurant of mine and told him to check out the food and the language...

Headed out to the Harley dealership. Noticed that my handlebars are crooked. Not a big deal, but as with some Softails -- especially with a FXSTC like mine with the little 21" front tire and bigger apes --  I've had some high speed wobble at times. Riding a Harley (HD = hunnerd dollars), I was looking at it and seeing dollar signs flashing before my eyes. Shop foreman came out, took one look, and told me how to fix it myself in about 10 minutes. And, more amazing still, I actually have the right tools with me to do it. Now that's a wonder...

 Ran into one of the newest Brothers from the Club there, as well. Out of Beaumont, TX. On a run with his Lady. Good visit, got to talk about the Club and the Craft.

Rolled on down to Breaux Bridge and hit that little restaurant I recommended to my French friend. See, they have the best Crawfish Pie I've ever tasted (yes, my California friends -- there really is such a dish, it ain't just a line in a song) and I've been longing for it. Got a big Crawfish Platter and about two bites into it the manager              looked over at me smiled and said: "Cher, you look like somebody just come home!" I just smiled and kept eatin'.

Did ask if my French friends ever showed up. Seems as though they did, tested both the food and the French and were last seen headin' off to New Orleans with a smile on their faces and still tryin' to get their eyebrows detached from their hairlines. Ahh...Bienveneiu a L'Acadianna, mes amies. LOL.

I've just re-read this thing -- something I've not been doing with this blog. The other posts just flowed out, this one has been work. Probably because I knew this afternoon would be something private and very personal that I might not want to share.

So let's just leave it at this: had a very special time with my daughter, just the two of us, for an hour or two. Then she went to pick up Sofia and Nick got in after the long drive from the Air Base. We all got back together for some amazing Cajun Pizza and then I spent the next few hours being instructed, by a 22 month old, on the proper form and method for saying: "Oooooh, Nooooo -- it's locked!" as we attempted to crack safes and open various and sundry doors. I was then fortunate enough to able to instruct the very same 22 month old in the method for stalking cats in the style of a sumo wrestler. I got to remember, one more time, why I like and respect my son-in-law so much.

I'm a pretty happy guy.

12 August 2010

XC Run Day 6

Clear and hot. That's how it started and that's how it stayed for much of the day.

Ridin' solo is an introspective pursuit. I keep telling myself I'm gonna put the headphones on, crank up some tunes on the 'Droid, and roll like I see the young folks do.

Never seems to happen.

I'm just there, alone with my thoughts and the hum of the tires, the wind and that big old V-Twin.

I'll take it any day.

They say that a human being with normal 20/20 vision, if the air is clear, can see a match lit on a mountain top 50 miles away. In fact, aside from the big brain and opposable thumbs, it's the big factor for our place on the food chain. No wonder we've gotten so addicted to the visual modes like TV and the internet. So it's no wonder that the first thing I noticed was a change in the trees. A little bigger and fuller with each mile runnin' U.S. 190 through those little Texas towns, baking in the August sun. But the things we can never get, from any sort of picture box, that make it real are from the ancillary senses: the change in smells from cow to fish, the tang of salt water just hinting in the air, the wind's changing sound as it filters now through the trees, the feel of moisture as it builds on the skin. I began to sense the Gulf, our great unmentioned and unthought of third coast,  looming as I rode on.

Then a couple of big towns, Bryant and Huntsville, twisted me back into the Texas of 500 miles ago, open and hot. Huntsville, with it's Starbucks and Home Depots and shopping malls that I had almost forgotten existed. Huntsville, with Becky Sue, in her big Suburban or Expidition, cuttin' ya off in traffic on the four lane to gain another foot or two like she owned the road. And I let her. Without drama or gestures or excitement, because I knew she would and because she does own the road around here. She was born here and she's in the Junior League and a Member of the First Baptist Church and at the Beauty Parlor on Thursdays and Bubba's doin' real well 'cause he's been workin' for Daddy down t' th' Chevrolet Dealership or in the "Awl Biddness" since he graduated from A&M, don'tcha know.

And we all fell in behind her, and nobody seemed to get too excited when, just out of town, when the speed limit went to 70, she dropped about 15 miles an hour below that, and wouldn't let anyone pass, 'cause she got a phone call from Glenda and did you hear about what happened to Missy?

Becky Sue dropped off well before Big Thicket, and while I don't miss her too much, I surely do hope Missy and Junior can work it out.

On through Big Thicket, Ralph Yarborough's enduring gift to Texas, and with every mile the landscape changes a bit more and the convenience store accents  get broader in the vowels. There are lots of bridges now, lots of open water, from lakes to trickles. The wet air, so muggy and close when one is standing still, is a joy to my skin as I roll along. Deliciously cool and sweet. The hairs on my arms sigh with pleasure.

Now it's Sabine country, and Jasper and Newton and, finally,  Bon Wier. Then it's the river itself and Louisiana. Lots of cast off, thrown away, old places on this route, too. For, like it's more famous sister in the West, this was once a big road, now lazy and lost amongst the bayous and the oaks.

Those big late afternoon thunderheads were looming and I was going to stop in Deridder, but I rolled on. Going to stop in Monroe, but I rolled on. It felt so good and cool and peaceful on the road. Finally hit Kidder (we say Kid-aire) and stopped for something to drink. Asked about a good place to stay, and was asked in turn where I was headed. "Oh, Opelousas, Lafayette, Breaux Bridge." "Heck, man, Opelousas is only 40 minutes down the road."

I had forgotten how close it was. Not thinking in miles or time or destinations, I had let the miles slip by, but fortunately, not the country or the people.

So I pushed on in the late afternoon, with the threat of storm all around me, to Eunice, where I got my EMT certification at LSU-E. Into Opelousas and ran over to Kerr St. to the dead end where Hardy and Mary used to live to see the old place -- now sold and gussied up a bit, but still the same marvelously Cajun, weathered boarded, tin roofed, place that started life as a store in the 1800's -- where Hardy and I darn near burned down  half of Louisiana one 4th of July, but, Oh, it was a splendiferous fireworks display and the kids squealed with glee. Down past Grand Coteau where my old house is and my ancestors are buried and my little girl went to school at L'Academie de Sacre Coeur . Down the route I drove everyday to work for 5 years.

So I sit in Lafayette. And though I ache to see my little girl and her little girl and the wonderful young man that loves them maybe even more than I do, I think I'll wait. I'm a day early and Nick's just getting back off a reserve duty rotation with those C-130s he loves so much. Not throw 'em any surprises.

And, anyway, ridin' solo is an introspective pursuit.

11 August 2010

XC Run Day 5

West Texas has always been a contradiction for me. Some of my least favorite country, it breeds some of my most favorite people.

Post is a good example. Got started later than usual this morning. Had to wait for the saddlery  to open. Minor problem with the leather strings that attach it to the frame. Any of you that ride throw-overs know what I mean.

Anyway, the fellow that ran the place was a typical example of the breed. Came out took a look at things, allowed as how he might just have an idea, then proceeded to put a fix on it. Now I knew that when I asked: "How much I owe ye?", he was gonna say, "Aww, Heck -- nuthin'". He probably knew I'd ask and what he'd say. I did, he did. Just how things like that are done by those West Texas folks. They extend to each other and strangers (polite ones anyway, certain conventions must be observed) what one Texas writer called "tender mercies".

He sells spurs, too.
Reminded me that simple, small kindnesses are a good start to any day. For both parties.

Lots of hard used gear.

I had just fueled up, but the day was already getting hot, so I thought I'd just cruise on down to the next town and get something wet. I didn't even slow down for the next 200 miles.

Joni Mitchell, for my money, wrote some of the most poetic lines in North American music.

"The drone of flying engines
is a song
so wild and true
It'll scramble time
      and seasons
if it gets through to you.


And your life becomes
  a travelogue of
picturepostcard
charms..." 


Having made my living as a pilot a fair part of my life, I can attest to that. I can also attest to the fact that one could easily substitute motorcycle for flying. Not as poetic a word, but just as true. And she was referring to radial engines (is there anything better than the sound of a P&W R-985 at night -- when you can set the mixture by the color of the exhaust flame?) which are not very different at all from 'scoots.

Something primal, deeply felt, in that drone. Visceral and real.

Or, maybe my brains are just scrambled from all the years of roaring about in all the various types of strange contraptions we've come up with for getting from A to B.

Think I might still have my "Road Poet" head on from yesterday morning's ride. Not to worry, though, I'll not quote any of my own poetry. I ascribe to Robert Heineline's theorem; "Be wary of those who read their poetry in public -- they may have other nasty little habits."

Let's just say that I got into smokin' down the highway, blessing the Harley engineers for coming up with the counterbalanced "B" engine.

I had decided, today, to give my 64 year old skin and face a day off. Went with long sleeves and the 3/4 helmet with full face-shield.  Glad I did, though I may get a call from Al Gore or one of his minions. Do believe I halved the butterfly population of West Texas. Suffice it to say that when I stopped for fuel around Jonesboro, it took a lot of scrubbing with the bug remover to get to where I could see through that shield again. Woulda been like gettin' hit by shrapnel. No thanks, already been there. And as for hot -- when I asked some locals in one town what the temperature was they just looked at me and said: "Hot.".

So I roared through Abilene, and on into the Hill Country. Sure is purdy there. I had thought about running south to the Killeen area to see if I could hook up with some Brothers from that new Chapter there. Thought I'd make that decision in Temple. By the time I looked up, Temple was 10 miles in the mirrors. Ah..well. I was rollin'.

No idea what tomorrow will bring, but, then again, who does?

Talk to you tomorrow night, when we all do.